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Understanding Leather Products

Be mindful that new ingredients are present in some leather products that have been around for a long time. So, scientifically you are really looking at a completely new leather substance so while you believe you might obtain certain outcomes from using the product last year; with the latest formulas this year, the results obtained could be very different. In fact, certain leather items that have been in use for a long time have been used for uses other than those seen today.

Acrylic Copolymers Innovation continues to offer new leather goods such as acrylic copolymers that create a’ net’ barrier that is too fine for water molecules to move through, but still enough porous to enable water vapor to keep leather breathing. Such products do not have silicone spray slick strength and do not have a negative effect on painting.

Often, most reliable leather dealers will send you advice on how to look after the products. Some even include tips on how to distinguish good from bad leather.

Beeswax For a long time this natural leather commodity has been in use. Now, it is mixed with more conventional materials, making it possible to make better leather products. One of the primary things that beeswax provides, though it also substitutes natural oils, is waterproofing.

Blackball Blackball is a mixture of beef tallow, beeswax and soot that was used in one fell swoop in the 18th century as a multi-purpose remedy for clothing, waterproofing, drying and blackening.

Cleaning With each use, a quick wipe down or brushing is a good idea for your leather pieces to help knock dirt off the surface and prevent dust from slipping into the pores. Cleaning should be performed with heavily soiled leather or for stains to discourage dirt and other particles from working their way into the leather and becoming a permanent, more than possibly unattractive part of your piece.

This is not the principle of washing per se. To emulsify and take off contaminants and stains, you add a detergent of sorts to the air. Follow the directions and first decide whether spot cleaning will eliminate the sort of soil you are working with. If required, you can clean the leather’s entire area.

Conditioning often accompanies the washing. Just be careful to let the item dry properly and naturally, and stop using hair dryers unless the vendor has indicated that it is appropriate. In some situations it is appropriate to use a hair dryer at low heat but you want to do this with extreme care, of course.

You should obey the instructions of the supplier, or just use common sense here. If your leather is a bit tired, it’s not hard to tell. Regular treatment can discourage degradation such as cracking, which is vital as there is no recovery when leather is broken.

Only by repairing it can the broken leather be fully replaced. While it can also be colored to make the leather look standard, it will stay the crack. Conditioners run the oil-to-wax gamut and both function as conditioners. Wax tends to make leather tougher, and fits for some things like a bicycle seat, while oil tends to make leather smoother as a leather sofa.

The conditioner used is lanolin. Obenaufs has leather products that are worth considering, especially when working with a specialist garment such as motorcycle and equipment for firefighters. Even, Obenauf makes boot care packages about which people rave.

Conditioners often act as critical agents or sealants for waterproofing. It makes perfect sense because, when the skin was still on the beast, it’s the same principle at work as in nature. If you’re operating on a piece of leather that won’t be in direct contact with your hands, the oil is great. Boots are good candidates and the outside of a sweater.

Sending oil a day to sink in, whatever, is always a good idea. When you deal with an object that covers your skin or clothing, such as a seat of some kind, allow the substance time to sink in and maybe a gentle cleaning before sitting on or wearing it.

Mink Oil Mink has a layer of fat beneath their fur and, as you learn, they have fantastic pelts. This fatty coating is transformed into Mink Wax, which is used for leather preparation. Mink oil may trigger the smell of greasy furniture. It’s primary purpose for hiking boots as a water-proofing device. It is not approved for leather upholstery as a protective coating. Many leather goods from Mink contain filler additives, so if you want good quality, read the label.

Neatsfoot Oil A “neat” is a beef horse, which used to be produced from cow hooves, which is the term. It is heavy oil and is used to stitch rot cotton on sewn leather pieces. Neatsfoot oil seems to have the most colorful history of all the raw oils. Neatsfoot oil has been mixed with all kinds of things to make leather (especially footwear) useful.

Saddle Cleaner Saddle cleaner is a perfect saddle treatment, but it can actually harm leather upholstery. Saddles are made of hard, tanned crop leather that can withstand saddle soap’s alkalinity. It is intended to remove manure from saddles and related thick dirt.

Leather of the ufolstery standard has been treated individually, typically with chromium tanning that imparts supple characteristics. Through breaking down the fibrous layer through chemical reaction, Saddle soap accelerates the deterioration of upholstery fabric.

That wasn’t a concern in the days when most leather products were the hide’s natural color. In reality, it was good to end the era that saddles took up. When dying and bleaching leather has become more commonplace, people are more concerned about the leather that retains the original color that they purchased.

Some leather treatment recommendations also suggest that you stay away from anything that includes silicone. Products made from silicone leather provide good finishes. There’s nothing in them to treat the clothing, however.

A Jaguar enthusiasts newsletter cautioned that using silicone on leather seats could make future repairs very difficult, especially re-coloring. If this is not a concern, sprays of silicone polymers are non-greasy leather goods that can be used on all leathers, including suede, to create this kind of finish.


Many rules position petroleum products as silicone in the same group. Petroleum materials are used in leather products for the treatment of leather as in a museum or collectible where animal-based products may not be as appropriate as they may be a vector for bacteria or mold infection.

Stripping The stripping phase is another method to consider. Stripping extracts all the fat from the fabric which leaves you with the raw material. If you were to paint clothing, it would require scraping.

Fresh leather sometimes has a surface coating that stops a conditioner or sealant from being absorbed so you might want to peel it off before conditioning. Normally, this conditioning applied by the manufacturer can wear off as you use the products. Keep in mind that petroleum-based solvents are industrial leather strippers on the market-Naphthalene is a perfect example. The downside is that it can be pricey for professional strippers.

Ironically, Zippo lighter fluid is manufactured of the same material and is much less costly, but a word of caution to warn the distributor about any sealant that might have been used before you douse the fresh leather with lighter fluid. Some of these wash off easily, and you won’t need to remove the leather first when you’re about to clean.

It is now possible to find leather products in most markets. In reality, they are likely to be carried even by your grocery store. Lexol and Leatherique have been around for a while and are well known. The makers of these leather products state they have preserved the good effects of historically utilized “organic” items on leather and used new technology to change them as a way to reduce or remove some of the less favorable effects.

Magnesium (School Chalk) Can be used for buckskin brushing. Just use the rough side with a soft brush and the smooth side with chamois cloth. Protein will also be consumed by school chalk or maize meal. When you deal with white buckskin, a common home remedy is to use magnesium on the stain after gently cleaning.